You also need a pair of Circlip Pliers, a small Slot head screwdriver, Needle-nosed Forceps and some degreasing fluid like brake cleaner, acetone or lighter fuel.įor your safety, Do Not use lighter fuel if you are using electrical appliances like hairdryer, powered screwdriver or ultrasonic cleaner.
#Crack 400 reel schematic series
You also need a series of Philips Head screwdrivers from PH1 to PH3 T-15 Torx wrench to remove #88 Power Knob Top Screwģ/16th Allen Wrench to remove #106 Cast Control Frame Screw if it has been turned in beyond the #107 Cast Control Frame Knob’s ability to reach. T-6 sized Torx wrench needed for the four #24 Sideplate Screws. You need a T-8 Torx wrench to remove the two #1 Handle Keeper Screws I believe the bearings are not metric too, so I’ve included the vernier caliper pictures for you to decide which fraction of an inch it is. Fortunately, I have a pair of adjustable spanner that’s very accurate to remove the #23 Shaft Handle Screw and #70 Frame Studs. Get your tools and kit in order before embarking.įor those of us who use metric, this reel may be a challenge as the hex screws are SAE sizes. Then you go out to buy the tool and come home to find the dog had scattered your reel to the four corners of the room and now some part is lost… Now it’s hard to stay angry with the dog so instead of blaming yourself, be prepared.
It can be really frustrating to be halfway through stripping a reel only to find that you are in want of a tool to complete the job. Some tools and kit I used in working this reelīefore you embark on stripping the reel, check that you have the necessary tools to do the job. The link above is a schematic that can be used for the Boss 400 series, 500 series and 600 series. Underside, the #71 Frame (Foot) is carved out of Aluminium stock, fastened by 4 Philips Head Stainless steel #72 Base Screws.Ĭlick this to get the Schematic for the bx.ipbĪlways have the reel’s schematics with you when you strip down the reel. Perhaps metallised plastic may better address this? No doubt, plastic may be a lighter, better material to use but it’s the aesthetics that got jarred by the application. This reel has all metal parts except for that piece of plastic #20 Gear Cover which destroyed its design integrity. In fact its spool is smaller than Shimano’s Talica 8II.īut it sure has a good heft despite its small size.
#Crack 400 reel schematic full
This reel is really tiny, other than the full sized handle. There’s lots of helpful videos on maintenance etc to watch, so reading this step-by-step may actually be redundant. But before you decide on cracking your Accurate reel open, you should spend some time at. In this Step-by-step, I’ll try to include the schematic key number of this reel with a “#”.
#Crack 400 reel schematic crack
So as usual, let’s begin by taking a look at this reel before I crack it open. So it was not until my friend Bernard shew me his silver reel in the 90s that I truly came to know Accurate reels as a serious contender in the game reel market despite the fact that their reels are not garbed in gold which was de rigueur for a game reel to be taken seriously in those days. Funny how our values are all influenced by what we see and experience in our earlier days. But that Accurate gaff that I saw still stands today as the standard by which I judge gaffs. I’ve once upon a time thought Accurate was an aftermarket “tuning” house that made Accuframes for the real deal reels like Penns. When you hear the name Accurate Fishing being mentioned, what is the first thing that comes to your mind? Do you envision solidly built reels? Aircraft aluminium billets milled into reels? Twin drags? Titanium drag plates? CNC lathed parts? Strangely for me, a gaff comes to my mind first, and oh what a well made gaff that was indeed!
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